In the sun-drenched city of Nice, perched along the French Riviera, food is as colorful and vibrant as the coastline itself. One of its most beloved specialties is the Pissaladière Niçoise—a savory tart topped with slow-cooked onions, anchovies, and olives.

Although it resembles pizza, don’t be fooled: pissaladière is older than pizza itself, and it carries the signature flavors of Provence—herbs, olive oil, and the unmistakable briny taste of the Mediterranean. Traditionally eaten as a snack or appetizer, it’s a dish that instantly transports you to a bustling market square in Nice, where locals enjoy it with a glass of rosé.

🏛️ A Little History

The name “pissaladière” comes from pissalat, a Provençal condiment made of fermented anchovies and sardines mixed with spices. While today’s version often skips pissalat, anchovies remain the star ingredient. Historically, this onion tart was prepared by bakers in wood-fired ovens early in the morning, sold as a quick snack to workers.

Today, it’s a staple in Nice and neighboring Ligurian towns in Italy, where a similar dish is called sardenaira.

🛒 Ingredients (Serves 6)

For the dough (similar to bread or pizza dough):

300 g all-purpose flour

7 g dry yeast

180 ml lukewarm water

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp sugar

1 tsp salt

For the topping:

1 kg onions, thinly sliced

6 tbsp olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried thyme)

12 anchovy fillets in olive oil (or more, depending on taste)

Black Niçoise olives (or Kalamata), pitted

Freshly ground black pepper

🔪 Step-by-Step Preparation

1. Make the dough

In a bowl, dissolve yeast and sugar in warm water. Let it sit until foamy (about 10 minutes).

Add flour, salt, and olive oil. Knead into a smooth dough (8–10 minutes).

Cover and let it rise for about 1 hour, or until doubled in size.

2. Prepare the onion topping

Heat olive oil in a large pan.

Add sliced onions and cook slowly over low heat for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally until they become soft, golden, and sweet (but not caramelized to a deep brown).

Add garlic, thyme, and pepper. Cook for another 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

3. Assemble the pissaladière

Preheat oven to 220°C (425°F).

Roll out the dough into a rectangle or circle (about 1 cm thick). Place on a parchment-lined baking tray.

Spread the onion mixture evenly over the dough.

Arrange anchovy fillets in a crisscross lattice pattern. Place an olive in each diamond shape formed by the anchovies.

4. Bake

Bake for 20–25 minutes, until the crust is golden and crisp.

Allow to cool slightly before slicing—it’s best served warm or at room temperature.

🍷 Serving Suggestions

Traditionally eaten as a snack or appetizer, pissaladière pairs beautifully with a glass of Provençal rosé or a crisp white wine.

Cut into squares for a party platter or enjoy as a light lunch with a simple green salad.

It also makes a delicious picnic dish, since it can be eaten cold and travels well.

💡 Tips & Variations

Vegetarian version: Skip anchovies and add more olives or capers for a briny kick.

Shortcut dough: You can use ready-made pizza dough or puff pastry if you’re short on time.

Extra herbs: A sprinkle of Herbes de Provence gives it even more Mediterranean character.

Ligurian twist: Try adding tomatoes, as done in sardenaira, the Italian cousin.

🌞 Final Thoughts

The Pissaladière Niçoise is much more than an onion tart—it’s a slice of Provençal history, infused with the sunshine, sea breeze, and rustic flavors of southern France. Sweet onions, salty anchovies, and olives come together in a dish that’s humble yet unforgettable.

Perfect for sharing, this specialty is a reminder that simple ingredients, prepared with love, can create culinary masterpieces. One bite, and you’ll feel like you’re strolling through the old streets of Nice.